Grip Handle with Sunlu 95A

I am having trouble printing the grip handle. It is constantly blowing out the bottom layers but will print the rest of the handle really well, but the first few layers just won’t print correctly for me.

Nothing I have tried, or suggestions from colleagues has worked.
I am using a Bambu Lab P1S and have tried tweaking the wall thickness, the speed, using supports, setting a height range modifier just for this section with fast and slower speeds and thicknesses and nothing seems to work.

Can someone please recommend some settings to get this to print without blowing out the seam on a P1S printer?

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I have issues of a similar variety… Check this thread in case there are any suggestions you haven’t tried mentioned there. I haven’t found anything that really works yet, but I haven’t tried again since my last attempt in that thread.

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Agree with @KitsWorkingHands. You are for sure not alone with this issue.

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Yeah I have tried the suggestion from that other thread and it did not improve the print at all.

IDK why they don’t just change the design to something with less overhang. It will still look ok and function the same. This design is clearly creating a lot of problems.

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The best I have gotten it to come out was to pain supports 2/3 of the way up that fillet. It still doesn’t come out perfect but much better than without. I made one with a chamfer instead of the filet but I haven’t been home to print and test it yet to.

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Mine have been coming out fine, 30 mms with painted supports. Bambu A1 Good Luck

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What nozzle size and would you share your support settings?

I use a .4 on my A1. I only use the profile as designed. I haven’t changed any of the support settings. I just painted on the supports around the base and at the very top of the inside of the handle. The supports have come off very well.

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I tried the same using a 0.4 nozzle, painting the same spots you have but have had no luck.
I can’t remember how slow I went but maybe not 30mm/s so I’ll give that a try and see what happens. Thanks.

30 is as fast as my A1 can go and get a good result.

Make sure supports are turned on or the painted supports wont populate.

I have never changed the speed on my A1. Just set the mm³ correctly for what the filament can actually flow and I get great results on my A1. Printing a full plate of tires right now with 95A TPU in 24hrs. the 98A can go over twice as fast.

Man I have a lot to learn… lol… I really appreciate everyone here. I have noticed that I can change the speed but it doesn’t affect the time. I’m sure that the limit is the mm3 - Thanks

I have to figure this out.

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That is because the speed is already capped by the mm3 set in the filament profile. When I am at my computer tonight I will try and take some screen shots that show what I am talking about and where it’s at

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I know you have used Geeetech TPU before. Now I have the .4 hotend on my A1 - I’m trying to find what this could be set at and I am assuming I’d need to change the temp also? Thanks

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I remove the long tree support for the top part and just support the bottom area on mine. They turn out fine, the top inside looks a little weird but that isn’t visible.

Are you using PLA as a support? Curious what machine you’re using. Thanks

Yep PLA support and printing that on the H2D.

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@NWCC I tried slicing a single tire tread using Bambu TPU 95A HF -

There was a TPU speed profile on Makerworld - they dropped the speed from default of 12 to 7.2 and when sliced the time on a single tread dropped from around 7 hours at 2.7 to 2 hours at 7.2 ..:rofl: Man I have a lot to learn… What volumetric speed do you think I could try with the Geeetech on an A1? I couldn’t find any info anywhere. Thanks

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Your going to have to run some test and see what it can handle. In other slicers you can run a max flow test but I dont believe you can do that in bambu studio. Right now for some 95A TPU on my A1 with a .6mm nozzle I have it set to 4.5mm³. If I was home to babysit it more I would try higher and see what I could get. I know the 98A I used the Generic TPU for AMS and it was set at 10.7mm³ (i believe. Could be wrong on the .7 amount) I am 99.9% sure I ran the same 4.5 with the .4mm nozzle. And its printing at 240° C right now and accoring to @CCJ they are looking good.

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Thank you very much. That is a great start. I might have to break out the .6 for the wheels next time. They by far are the most time consuming for me.