Printing trouble with TPU95A for cushions

Did you ever get permission to share with us?

@CBullard
I think you used AI to generate this image from the cushions!! They look TOO GOOD. :smiley: Thanks for sharing!

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lol….thank you for the compliment.

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Frustrated, feels fine, looks like hell. The challenge there is so little material on the outer wall and that slope is so dramatic, you not only have overhanging walls, but you don’t have much of a structure to keep the part from flexing. We don’t even used these holes for the upper straps, we go between the cushion and the upper hole in the handle part.

@MakeGood_Noam are these holes for ventilation? Thanks - needed to vent.

Any suggestions are welcomed: speed 30mms, acceleration 500mms, it is dry….lol

How I fix these hanging threads is by getting a fairly inexpensive soldering iron (here’s one on Amazon.com that I got for $10: Amazon.com: Soldering Iron Kit, 80W 110V Fast Heat up in 10s LCD Digital Adjustable Temperature Soldering Gun Thermostatic Soldering Kit for Electronic : Tools & Home Improvement ) set it at 235 degrees, turn the cushion so the top is down, and then run the thin conical pointed tip on the iron back and forth on the stringy and blobby areas to smooth them out. It’s not perfect, but makes them look a whole lot better so that you usually don’t notice them. If you have any holes, you can solder some new filament in and smooth it out so the holes are not that noticeable. Don’t apply a lot of pressure on the iron or you will melt all the way through the TPU, requiring a lot more soldering to fix your newly created hole.

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Just ordered it, you can set the temp for $10- lol - crazy good price. Thank you for such a thoughtful responce.

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I’m going to try reusable supports/spacers for my first build. I created these objects that are the same shape and size of the seat holes:

I’m going to print them out of PLA before I start printing the seat. When I slice the seat, I’ll set the print to pause at the layer before the overhang. When the print pauses, I’ll insert these into the recess and resume the print. The new filament should be laid right on top of the insert and be fully-supported. After printing, the support should slide right out.

If it works I’ll share the STLs on this Discourse.

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Now these are for the Perfectly Horizontal Holes? I first was thinking this would work, but then my brain engaged on the upper holes in the backrest which are diagonal and I was like dang, there is going to be a problem…. lol

Time to buy a dual head printer!

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Just go for the Snapmaker U1, Then you can do multicolor TPU!

I’m not that adventurous. I’m leaning towards a H2D to replace two of my P1S’s. The thought of easy support removal is incredibly appealing

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Just wish it didn’t cost so much more lol. Nice machines for sure. And the bambu eco system is top notch. I have 3 A1’s but just haven’t been able to pull the trigger on anything like the H series. I have some Qidi Q2’s and some custom built printers that cover the larger stuff.

Has anyone used the U1? I am very tempted. I think it would make a great addition to my A1 and P2S. My children have sold fidgets and multi color flex animals to raise money for our local food kitchen, over $750- to date. So this would be great for that. I love the idea of trying to print just one unit to see if you like it without wasting a bucket full of poo.

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I know there is a youtube video of a guy using one to print a TPU hueforge. I will see if I can find it and post a link in a few.

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I heard ya’ll wanted better bridging….

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Did you by chance save the cushion set with the settings separately that you can share the file?

TIA~

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PM sent has been sent.

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Thank you so much! These settings totally fixed my blobbing and stringing issues on an A1.

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Glad that it worked for you! It’s slow but they come out ok.