I want to ask a question respectfully regarding strength/efficiency for the PETG parts. I’m “translating” from the Bambu 3MF to my Creality slicer for my K2 Pro/K2 Plus/Creality Hi printers. I see most of the PETG parts are 2 wall with 15% gyroid infill. I have compared print time and materials vs 3 wall 10% gyroid. One example is on the left wheel mount. for 2 wall 15%, 16:44 using 559g but for 3 wall 10%, 13:27 using 494g. That’s on a K2 Pro, generic PETG profile with brim and using tree supports.
In my experience (and looking at some research through the years) 3 walls and 10% gyroid is stronger than 2 walls and 15% gyroid.
Given that it saves print time and material, has the team done any testing/research for recommending 2 wall 15%? I’m just curious. Not meant to be disrespectful, just curious as I’m doing my first build. To me, it seems like a win/win/win to go with my typical 3 wall 10% infill. I’m just looking for reasons to rethink that.
I print all of mine with 3 walls and 10% with a .6mm nozzle and it has worked well. Doesn’t cut down on material, but with 2 walls it was WAY too easy to have parts break. So in the end it saves me material with no broken parts
I do 0.6mm nozzle, 2 walls, 12%, 0.3mm layer. The parts use more material and I feel the parts are stronger as compared to the default 0.4mm nozzle, 2 walls, 15%, 0.2mm layer.
The only part that requires 0.2mm layer is the headrest and it’s screw
I print all PETG parts with 0.6mm Nozzle, 5 walls / 20% Gyroid infill. So far the only parts I end up breaking are rims when I try to hammer in pins that are not well aligned and handle brace (again due to pin pushed in too far). My philosophy is: I like to overbuild things (paranoia) and one cracked part negates all time savings gained from printing faster, so its best to minimize chances of it happening.
Dang, I just started printing my second TMT and I forgot to move to .6. Other than walls and infill, are you changing anything else in the profile for .6?
I will print the headrest and screw with the .4 nozzle before swapping.
20%? Whoa. How much are your chairs weighing? More infill won’t really prevent cracking, more walls will. If you are getting cracking on a 0.6 with 2 walls, I’d move to three and lower that infill, but first, I would work on support settings to clean up the interfaces easier.
If I really clean up the support interfaces, my parts only need a little persuasion to assemble…no real hammering
Same here. I ended up picking up one of these Fanttik rotary tools. Not cheap (actually $10 off right now) but man does it make getting them smooth super easy and then it all slides together real nicely. Just a few bumps with your palm and it’s done.
Also making sure you are not over extruding helps a lot too. Parts printed just a tiny bit too big will make things even harder to assemble.
Since bumping up to 3 top interface layers and rectilinear interface, I need very little cleanup after removal. I find I can do it all with a regular flat blade screwdriver or pocket knife.
Yeah that made a huge difference for me as well. I still hit them with the rotary just to make it even smoother. Looking forward to putting this next chair together with all of it printed with support interface at 0 so its super smooth.
I’m using a .4 nozzle with .2 layer, but what is the default interface? I actually think the support comes off pretty clean, but I’m always willing to try to get it dialed in a bit better, thanks.
I don’t think rectilinear interlaced is a bad one. I think the main improvers are the top Z distance (.28 for .4 nozzle, and .35 for .6 nozzle) and the 3 interface layers.
Thank you - I wish there was a way to favorite something / save a post (not the whole topic) Trying to find something days or weeks later is challenging…
I could just keep everything in a notebook like I used to.. Worked for years…
Thank You ???